Oscurecido en la niebla de la memoria infantil aflora mi primer recuerdo de viaje hasta allí. Para cuando por fin realicé el siguiente, las nevadas se contaban por decenas y el carnet de conducir se había añadido a mi colección de logros de adulta, tal y como prometió mi madre, permanentemente angustiada por la aventura de recorrer los 60 Km de la carretera infernal que unía el pueblo con Cuenca. Y es que no era para menos, a los pocos metros de anchura de la carretera y sus pequeños pero seguros precipicios se aliaban, por aquellos años y hasta hace no muchos, las 600 curvas prácticamente concentradas en el último tramo que algún obsesivo se ocupó de contar, supongo que para mantener la mente más entretenida que el estómago.
Para mí la aventura todavía hoy sigue empezando en Cuenca. No me voy a detener ni en las Casas Colgadas, ni en el Puente de San Pablo, ni en la hoz del Huécar, ni en la catedral gótica, ni en el Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, ni siquiera en las diversas escuelas de cerámica, tiempo tendrán de descubrirlas si acaso no lo han hecho todavía. Pero sí les pido que inicien el recorrido hacía la Sierra tomando el paseo del Júcar y admirando las añejas edificaciones asomadas al río, como si su virtud permanente de siglos radicara en buscar en él un reflejo secular y único mientras la corriente sigue su camino entre la protección de los fresnos.
En Villalba, a unos 30 Km de Cuenca, el terreno deja de ser llano y comienza la orografía característica de la Serranía, una mezcla de formaciones calcáreas o calizas entre embravecidos mares de pinos buscadores de luz y acunadores de sombras y nevazos. También fue en la mitología paterna donde hallé por primera vez los nombres del Ventano del Diablo y de la Ciudad Encantada, y siempre, una y otra vez, es allí donde mis ojos de conductora comienzan su rebelión tratando de fugarse de las curvas de la carretera, para emborracharse con el verde de los pinares y el gris de acento variable de los riscos.
Las oscilaciones climáticas dejan su huella en el pantano de La Toba. También aquí la naturaleza pone de relieve su poder con el preocupante contraste entre la sequía de algunos periodos y la abundancia exultante de otros, procurada por inviernos lluviosos y generosas nevadas. Mi recuerdo más vivo de esta parte del trayecto se aleja a una noche de 1 de septiembre, víspera del cumpleaños de mi padre, en la que la violencia de la tormenta estival y nocturna era tal que apenas conseguía adivinar los siguientes metros de una carretera esquiva y sin líneas de señalización. Resultaba imposible discernir en la oscuridad, y a través de la cortina de agua, un mínimo espacio para detener el coche y sabía que, además, de hacerlo, con toda probabilidad el siguiente automóvil me arrollaría. Todavía recuerdo la cara de alivio contenido de mi padre al verme detener el coche a la puerta de su casa aquella noche.
Huélamo se acuesta en la ladera de un monte. La tradición habla de árabes apostados en la cima de un enorme montículo de piedra, que sin duda lo preside, al que llaman "el Castillo". Las trazas de fortificación y las singulares excavaciones a modo de aljibes en su cima podrían confirmar que efectivamente la posición dominante del enclave resultara estratégica siglos atrás. Como tantos pueblos, muy pocas personas lo habitan en invierno mientras que en verano sus hijos reales, que ya son pocos, y los hijos y nietos de ellos acuden prestos a disfrutar de su clima templado, sus preciosas excursiones y las tradiciones de sus fiestas. El bullicio se apodera de las calles con la elección de "los cargos", la corrida de vaquillas, la carne en caldereta preparada por los pastores de otros años y la carrera pedestre, que, en sus primeros tiempos, los serranos debían hacer descalzos.
Me quedaría aún más corta de lo que me voy a quedar si no avanzara un poco más allá del pueblo y olvidara recomendar la visita al nacimiento del río Cuervo o incluso, ya puestos, extender el camino, cruzar los montes Universales y llegar hasta la ciudad medieval de Albarracín, ya en Teruel pero a poco más de 50 Km. de Huélamo. Este precioso enclave celta, romano y berberisco, mantiene muy inteligentemente su acento de fuerte influencia árabe. Para terminar, sería un pecado no mencionar por cercanía el Parque Natural de El Hosquillo, la reserva que tiene a los osos como imagen más conocida.
Y, llegados al final de estas líneas, si los tiempos fueran otros, tomaría la esbelta pluma de águila que mi padre me regaló para firmarlas y él, sin duda, sonreiría. Seguramente pensarán que hubiera sido imposible no amar la naturaleza con semejante padre.
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Publicado por primera vez 10/12/2010
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