En la puerta del desierto
La salida a primera hora de Midelt nos permitió contemplar por primera vez la belleza imponentemente nítida del Atlas y sus nevadas cumbres. Nuestra ruta de la mañana discurrió en paralelo a la cordillera. Más de uno recordó las escenas de la película “Babel” mientras las pupilas se llenaban de nuevos colores y arquitecturas, unas naturales y otras fabricadas por la mano centenaria del hombre. Y mientras, la gracia inimitable de los andaluces llenaba de risas nuestro habitáculo.
La aventura cambió de ritmo con el paso del minibús a los 4 x 4. Aquello era otro lenguaje y otra la singladura, el grupo se fraccionó y comenzó su función una herramienta que resultó fundamental para dar personalidad a nuestro viaje: los talkie walkies. De “coche Uno”, “Dos”, “Tres” y “Cuatro”, en pocas horas, pasamos a ser “Escarabajo follonero” o “Rosa del desierto”, y hasta “Tortuga” le tomó pronto la medida al nombre. Y les ruego que disculpen las claves que se ocultan bajo mis palabras, hasta ahí quiero llegar y no más.
A partir de ese punto, las imágenes, los contraluces y las formas, ganaron en singularidad. Comprendimos muchas cosas que antes nos sabían a pura teoría. La realidad figurada de los espejismos, la visible infinidad del mar de estrellas navegando en un cielo por fin limpio, la inquietante compañía del silencio, el multicolor despliegue de formas que la naturaleza defendía haciéndolas inhóspitas y escurridizas, el horizonte transformado puntualmente en una recta infinita y sin matices, el misterio del agua manando en oasis recónditos y únicos, y el pañuelo al estilo bereber, transformado en compañero obligatorio para cubrir boca y cabeza protegiendo del polvo y los elementos, ya no resultaban conceptos a recordar sino vivencias que iban grabándose en todos nosotros.
Así comenzaba nuestro contacto con el desierto. Las gigantescas dunas de Erg Chebbi nos contemplaban, y un grupo de arriesgados jinetes buscaron apurar el rojo atardecer del desierto aupados en la joroba de aquellos imponentes dromedarios. El frío, que tantas señales de advertencia nos había dado ya, se impuso también en el deambular por Merzouga.
Llegados a Arfoud, además de sorpresa, la comida en el Oasis de Saf-Saf fue algo más que una lección sobre cómo cocinar en el interior de las brasas al estilo local, fue también un pequeño descanso a nuestro maltrecho cuerpo después de más de cuatro horas persiguiendo la ruta del Dakar con los coches al límite posible de velocidad. Un impass mezclado de aprendizaje y reconocimiento.
El atardecer en esa parte del desierto fue la segunda gran sorpresa del día. Llegamos justos a la cita con un sol dispuesto a guardarse hasta la mañana siguiente. Pero los conseguimos, y en la altiplanicie infinita que buscábamos. “¡Todo el mundo abajo! ¡Mirad! ¡Escuchad!”. Y un pulso de sobrecogimiento nos recorrió… Y fuimos testigos privilegiados de una maravilla difícil de transmitir con apenas el limitado lenguaje de las palabras. “¡A los coches todos! ¡Nos vamos!”. “Tortuga” todavía tuvo tiempo que quedarse de nuevo en la arena, por enésima vez en el día.
Pero la jornada no estaba completa. Nada hubiera resultado igual sin aquella idea de un té bajo las estrellas que alguien sugirió y que todos improvisamos en pocos minutos. Primero, crear el fuego; luego, la tetera, el agua, los vasos, el rito y la sonrisa complacida de nuestro anfitrión bereber. El reflejo de las llamas, la conversación y las risas juegan todavía a perseguir figuras a contraluz en nuestras pupilas.
El Atlas de nuevo
Creo que todos nos dejamos un trocito de corazón al abandonar el desierto. Desde allí la carretera nos llevó hacia la “Ruta de las Mil Kasbahs” y las Gargantas del Todra, en el pequeño Atlas, y pudimos recorrer parajes donde las edificaciones y las kasbahs de ese singular color tierra tan característico, y con el que ya estábamos familiarizados, contrastaban con la vegetación propia de las cuencas de los escasos ríos.
Llegaba el fin de nuestro viaje. Atravesando el Valle de Rosas llegamos a Ouarzazate, y desde ahí, de nuevo el Atlas nos descubrió su magnificencia. El puerto de Tizi N’Tichka fue el penúltimo obstáculo (también llamado premio) en nuestro viaje, mientras agradecíamos, todos, la bendición del buen tiempo y la ausencia de nieve o tormentas en aquella carretera de alta montaña. La última anécdota fue una avería mecánica que puso fuera de combate a uno de los todo-terreno a pocos Km. de Marrakech, una prueba palpable de la dureza de los caminos recorridos.
Queda mucho en el tintero, lo sé. Algunas cosas por la necesidad de abreviar el texto y otras por un voluntarioso sentido de la confidencialidad. Pero ésta es la forma, un tanto trucada, de que en todos, viajeros y lectores, permanezca la sensación de seguir queriendo MÁS.
Angeles Jiménez
Publicado por primera vez 20/1/2011
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