Los dos Marruecos (1)

La pista del “Aeroport Marrakech Menara” adelanta muy poco de la ciudad y mucho menos del país. Escondido entre las miradas de despiste de quienes ponen por primera vez pié en el atardecer marroquí se anticipan muy pocas cosas de lo oculto en su quietud. Sí, quizá sea éste un aeropuerto más de los muchos visitados, uno más con avances limitados por los continuos controles de documentos y las facciones adustas de los funcionarios, acostumbrados al extenso ir y venir de su trajín internacional.

La relativa abundancia de chilabas y el incremento de pieles morenas y curtidas por el sol tampoco son referente claro del paso a otro continente y otra cultura. Solo el complicadísimo discurrir del tráfico de la avenida de Hasan II nos hace recobrar el sabor del alma marroquí.

Progresivamente, son múltiples los detalles que nos sumergen de verdad en el lugar y la fecha. El asombro que siempre genera el tráfico es uno de ellos. Decenas de conductores de bicicletas y motos, desarmados ante el peligro sin casco ni luz alguna; árboles centenarios, de tamaño más que significativo y de vientre encalado, en advertencia volumétrica del peligro que guardan; ausencia de líneas de demarcación en las carreteras y, en el mejor de los casos, farolas solitarias en mitad de la nada que anticipan unas horas de conducción dificultosa al amparo de la genuina oscuridad de la noche. Y las sensaciones vuelven: de nuevo en Marruecos, el paso de un año no ha cambiado nada.

Las características tierras rojas de las laderas del Atlas delatan el final del valle de Ourika.

Conocedora de la terrible subida al puerto de Tizi N’Tichka, un paso del Alto Atlas situado a 2.200 metros, agradezco muy mucho que la noche nos envuelva. Los muchos kilómetros de ascensión vertebrada a base de curvas y más curvas apenas dejan resquicio para intuir que aquellas lucecitas cada vez más lejanas y de difícil relativización en el espacio son los restos de la civilización que va quedando a nuestros pies. La parada obligatoria en algunos recodos de esta carretera diabólica, cuando nuestro autobús y algún camión de gran tamaño se citan, deja de ser anécdota para convertirse en norma más que aceptada cerca ya de la cumbre.

El bautizo de oscuridad acompasa el camino, libre ya de montaña, y la llegada a nuestro primer riad, un refugio de civilización con exquisito barniz bereber a pocos kilómetros de Ouarzazate. Una noche singularmente cerrada para culminar un día particularmente intenso.

 

Las kasbahs de las mil noches

Antes que nosotros, muchos otros han tenido la fortuna de conocer y compartir la Kasbah (ciudad fortificada) de Ait Ben Haddou con el mundo. Quienes han visto “Gladiator”, “Lawrence de Arabia” o “Ben Hur” ya saben de sus entresijos, sus puertas amuralladas, su recorte en el cielo y el orgulloso esplendor, amplificado en su vertiente al valle del río Ounila. El mismo río serpenteante que sirve de inspiración para nuestros guías improvisados ante el reto de atravesarlo a pié por dos lugares a cual más empedrado. Una mínima aventura que despierta no pocas risas en nuestra candidez de adultos. La UNESCO tuvo en cuenta otros criterios más pragmáticos al escoger el lugar más adecuado para el puente que financió y que une la Kasbah y el pueblo actual.

(sigue)

 

Marcar el enlace permanente.

23 comentarios

  1. Wow, marvelous weblog structure! How long have you ever been running
    a blog for? you made blogging look easy. The full look of your website is fantastic, as
    smartly as the content material! You can see similar here ecommerce

  2. My programmer is trying to persuade me to move to .net from PHP.

    I have always disliked the idea because of the expenses.
    But he’s tryiong none the less. I’ve been using WordPress on various websites for about a year and am concerned about switching to another platform.
    I have heard very good things about blogengine.net. Is there a way I can import all my wordpress content into it?
    Any kind of help would be greatly appreciated!
    I saw similar here: Sklep internetowy

  3. I’m gone to tell my little brother, that he should also visit this
    webpage on regular basis to take updated from most up-to-date news.
    I saw similar here: Dobry sklep

  4. Hello! Do you know if they make any plugins to help with SEO?
    I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good success.

    If you know of any please share. Thank you!
    You can read similar art here: Najlepszy sklep

  5. Howdy! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with SEO?
    I’m trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good success.
    If you know of any please share. Kudos!
    You can read similar blog here: Sklep internetowy

  6. Hello there! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with
    Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my blog to rank
    for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good gains.
    If you know of any please share. Thank you!

    You can read similar text here: Dobry sklep

  7. Hey! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist
    with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my website to
    rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very
    good results. If you know of any please share.
    Kudos! I saw similar blog here: Hitman.agency

  8. Hi there! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with SEO?

    I’m trying to get my site to rank for some targeted keywords but
    I’m not seeing very good results. If you know of any please share.
    Many thanks! You can read similar art here: Backlink Portfolio

  9. Wow, incredible blog format!
    How long have you been running a blog for? you made running a blog glance easy.
    The full glance of your web site is fantastic, as well as the content!
    You can read similar here prev next
    and those was wrote by Edwardo62.

  10. Wow, wonderful blog format!

    How lengthy have you been blogging for? you make blogging glance easy.
    The overall glance of your site is excellent, as well as the content material!
    I saw similar here prev
    next and
    it’s was wrote by Rusty82.

  11. Wow, amazing weblog structure!
    How lengthy have you been running a blog for?
    you make blogging look easy. The whole glance of your website is
    wonderful, let alone the content! You can see similar here prev next and those was wrote by Willard70.

  12. Wow, incredible blog structure!
    How lengthy have you ever been blogging for? you made
    blogging look easy. The full glance of your web site is great,
    as neatly as the content! I read similar here prev next and it’s
    was wrote by Werner61.

  13. Wow, awesome blog format!

    How lengthy have you ever been running a blog for?
    you made running a blog glance easy. The overall
    look of your site is fantastic, let alone the content!
    You can read similar here Wyatt Duj7.
    2024/04/23

  14. Hey! Do you know if they make any plugins to assist with Search Engine Optimization? I’m
    trying to get my blog to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not seeing very good
    success. If you know of any please share. Kudos! I saw similar art here: Escape room list

  15. Hi there! This is my first visit to your blog! We are a group of volunteers and starting a new project in a community in the same niche. Your blog provided us valuable information to work on. You have done a extraordinary job!

  16. Currently it seems like BlogEngine is the best blogging platform out there right now. (from what I’ve read) Is that what you’re using on your blog?

  17. Hello there! Do you know if they make any
    plugins to help with Search Engine Optimization? I’m trying to get my website to rank for some targeted keywords but I’m not
    seeing very good gains. If you know of any please share.
    Kudos! You can read similar article here

  18. This is a must-read for anyone interested in…오피

  19. Your insights really add depth to this topic.오피

  20. I ll have to add this to the list, this is one that I ve experienced as well priligy 30mg levitra ivermectin md Гў Maybe now, with the amount of time and distance, a black President, with all these sort of anniversaries, 150 years since the abolition, 50 years since the March on Washington, people feel that thereГў s enough time and distance to reflect on things as well as a desire to move forward, Гў Ejiofor said

Deja una respuesta

Tu dirección de correo electrónico no será publicada.