A paso de guarnición acuartelada o a paso de visitante novata, da igual. No cuesta rememorar la viveza de aquellos pasos que buscaron tantas veces proteger la ciudad ni cuesta otear navíos imaginarios haciéndose un hueco en el horizonte marino en esta ciudad milenaria.
Descubro murallas y garitas protectoras como si de nuevos amaneceres se tratase. Y es que para mí lo son. Nunca antes había estado en este casco antiguo de Cádiz. La tardanza en llegar despierta un esbozo inicial de ira. Pero pasa pronto, nada se ha perdido, sigue aquí con su sabor a pólvora dormida y su bravura de espada ilustrada acunando los rincones que descubro, cada uno, acaudalados en luchas y algarabías.
El mapa circunstancial de la ciudad termina por grabarse en mi mente con facilidad. La geometría de sus formas se abre paso sin apenas forzarlo en el esquema singular de mis neuronas espaciales.
Recorro calles, murallas y plazas cual si de mi enésima versión de viaje se tratase. Ya me resulta fácil enlazar la iglesia de san Agustín con la Plaza de San Francisco, el Baluarte Candelaria y el Parque Genovés, las preciosas alamedas del norte con la imponente Puerta de Tierra que abre la ciudad al este, la coqueta catedral vieja protegiendo el imponente perfil de la nueva; desandar el Arco de los Blanco hasta alcanzar el de la Rosa; admirar la sencilla arquitectura del Mercado Central como si de hacerse eco de la serena belleza de la Plaza de la Flores se tratase; o visitar, por fin (aquí también se impone la costumbre de cerrar los monumentos de todos los españoles los lunes), el Oratorio de San Felipe Neri, tras dejar detrás, a escasas manzanas, la Torre Tavira.
No puedo dejar de sentir el espíritu de tantos revolucionarios flotando aún por la ciudad. Será tal vez que la oratoria de Castelar se traduce hoy en otras formas de expresión igual de contundentes y compartidas.
Ángeles Jiménez
Publicado 2/7/2013
(Hacer doble click sobre las fotos para ampliarlas)
Ver más en: Los Juanillos y A los cuatro vientos
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