La pista del “Aeroport Marrakech Menara” adelanta muy poco de la ciudad y mucho menos del país. Escondido entre las miradas de despiste de quienes ponen por primera vez pié en el atardecer marroquí se anticipan muy pocas cosas de lo oculto en su quietud. Sí, quizá sea éste un aeropuerto más de los muchos visitados, uno más con avances limitados por los continuos controles de documentos y las facciones adustas de los funcionarios, acostumbrados al extenso ir y venir de su trajín internacional.
La relativa abundancia de chilabas y el incremento de pieles morenas y curtidas por el sol tampoco son referente claro del paso a otro continente y otra cultura. Solo el complicadísimo discurrir del tráfico de la avenida de Hasan II nos hace recobrar el sabor del alma marroquí.
Progresivamente, son múltiples los detalles que nos sumergen de verdad en el lugar y la fecha. El asombro que siempre genera el tráfico es uno de ellos. Decenas de conductores de bicicletas y motos, desarmados ante el peligro sin casco ni luz alguna; árboles centenarios, de tamaño más que significativo y de vientre encalado, en advertencia volumétrica del peligro que guardan; ausencia de líneas de demarcación en las carreteras y, en el mejor de los casos, farolas solitarias en mitad de la nada que anticipan unas horas de conducción dificultosa al amparo de la genuina oscuridad de la noche. Y las sensaciones vuelven: de nuevo en Marruecos, el paso de un año no ha cambiado nada.
Las características tierras rojas de las laderas del Atlas delatan el final del valle de Ourika.
Conocedora de la terrible subida al puerto de Tizi N’Tichka, un paso del Alto Atlas situado a 2.200 metros, agradezco muy mucho que la noche nos envuelva. Los muchos kilómetros de ascensión vertebrada a base de curvas y más curvas apenas dejan resquicio para intuir que aquellas lucecitas cada vez más lejanas y de difícil relativización en el espacio son los restos de la civilización que va quedando a nuestros pies. La parada obligatoria en algunos recodos de esta carretera diabólica, cuando nuestro autobús y algún camión de gran tamaño se citan, deja de ser anécdota para convertirse en norma más que aceptada cerca ya de la cumbre.
El bautizo de oscuridad acompasa el camino, libre ya de montaña, y la llegada a nuestro primer riad, un refugio de civilización con exquisito barniz bereber a pocos kilómetros de Ouarzazate. Una noche singularmente cerrada para culminar un día particularmente intenso.
Las kasbahs de las mil noches
Antes que nosotros, muchos otros han tenido la fortuna de conocer y compartir la Kasbah (ciudad fortificada) de Ait Ben Haddou con el mundo. Quienes han visto “Gladiator”, “Lawrence de Arabia” o “Ben Hur” ya saben de sus entresijos, sus puertas amuralladas, su recorte en el cielo y el orgulloso esplendor, amplificado en su vertiente al valle del río Ounila. El mismo río serpenteante que sirve de inspiración para nuestros guías improvisados ante el reto de atravesarlo a pié por dos lugares a cual más empedrado. Una mínima aventura que despierta no pocas risas en nuestra candidez de adultos. La UNESCO tuvo en cuenta otros criterios más pragmáticos al escoger el lugar más adecuado para el puente que financió y que une la Kasbah y el pueblo actual.
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